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Category Archives: Terroir

Managing Tannins

Posted on February 5, 2022 by Roger Harmston Posted in Terroir Leave a comment

Foggy, cool, wet weather on the coast paired with even colder snowy weather in the Interior has most wine drinkers thinking about red wine at this time of the year, and in many cases, the bigger, the better.

But what is a full-bodied red? Perhaps its most distinguishing feature is its authoritative finish. Long, rich, persistent and sometimes warm (from higher alcohol). It is a wine that lingers on your palate long after you swallow it

Much of red wine’s structure, texture and mouthfeel comes from the tannin in the wine, and the tannins come from grape skins, seeds, stems, oak and, in some cases, additives to wine. Soft tannins, a buzz phrase in today’s winemaking, are making the hard, dry tannins of the past that leave your mouth puckered and your taste buds bitter a distant memory.

Tannin management has become an art over the last 25 years, starting in the vineyard where precision agriculture and picking at the right moment yields dense, ripe, soft tannins that bring structure to the wine without adding dryness and bitterness. Add to that gentle handling and less juice movement by mechanical pumps (think gravity), and we are getting more stylish tannins at the winery. The trick is to build texture, structure and mouthfeel without extracting palate-drying tannins.


Modern tannin management uses shade cloth to protect the bunches from sunburn and the grapes from shrivelling into raisins. Leaf pulling lets speckled light through the canopy for slower ripening. In some cases, we see a return to the old California Sprawl or “ballerina” canopy that naturally protected the berries from the harsh midday sun.


Vancouver Sun. Anthony Gismondi:  Feb 04 2022

tannin

Feed me too

Posted on February 5, 2022 by Roger Harmston Posted in Terroir Leave a comment

The vineyard features fully sustainability.  I’d like to stop by, stay a night or two, and sample the food as well as their wines.  Restaurant. Deli.  And you can even do a farm picnic.


Their vision is to balance tradition and experience with contemporary innovation to produce classic wines with measured modern new world attitude that are uniquely Boschendal.


So we are sampling their Chardonnay.  The one with  hints of oak spice. Unirrigated, well drained, rocky shale terroir. Whole bunch pressed. Natural fermentation. Then 11 months in oak.


It is big on aroma and flavours, great nose with citrus on the palate. Well balanced, good complexity and roundness.


Early sampling sorta screamed pasta – so we did … with lots of garlic, red and yellow pepper strips, red onion, egg noodle pasta.

CHARDONNAY – BOSCHENDAL WESTERN CAPE 2019

$19.99

13.5% alcohol

UPC: 06001660003824

Chardonnay mystery case South Africa

Are you well connected?

Posted on February 4, 2022 by Roger Harmston Posted in Terroir 1 Comment

Here’s a new way of looking at the world: A map showing the location of every single device connected to the Internet. 

The image was created by John Matherly, founder of Shodan, a search engine for connected devices. He pinged every device online, then mapped the location of the ones that responded:

Your Breakfast tells me your origins

Posted on February 2, 2022 by Roger Harmston Posted in Terroir Leave a comment

When it comes to breakfast foods around the world, there are as many ways to enjoy the first meal of the day as there are to say “good morning.”From creamy cornbread cake in Brazil and savory Tunisian chickpea soup to fluffy Ukrainian pancakes and sweet coconut jam toasts in Singapore, these 21 international specialties offer a food option for every palate.And even if the flavors in some of these dishes might be unexpected based on your typical choices, the presentations are likely familiar. Read through the list — in no particular order — and learn about the delicious diversity of our world’s breakfast cultures. Maybe you’ll even find some inspiration for your next meal.

Switzerland

On weekdays, the Swiss frequently stick to quick but filling breakfasts such as the traditional birchermüesli, the granola-style blend of oats with fruit and nuts that’s usually served over thick yogurt.But on weekends, it’s time for Swiss brunch. Along with roesti (potato pancakes), cheeses and cold cuts, the centerpiece of the brunch table is zopf. This braided egg bread is similar to challah or brioche, and served with honey, butter and jam.

Ethiopia

When you’re having qurs (that’s “breakfast” in Amharic, Ethiopia’s official language), chances are you’ll be eating porridge. While there are many varieties and names for hot grain cereals served throughout the country, savory genfo is one of the most popular.Genfo is made by mixing barley flour with boiling water until a thick, sticky dough forms, then shaped into a mound with a well in the center. The well is then filled with clarified butter blended with berbere, the complex spice blend, and dollops of yogurt are often spooned around the edges of the genfo.

Japan

Japanese breakfasts fall squarely on the savory side of the food spectrum: In fact, much of what you can eat for breakfast in Japan wouldn’t be out of place at any other meal of the day.Many morning repasts consist of a selection of small plates, each with a few bites of a traditional Japanese dish.Fish such as salmon or mackerel, miso soup, pickled vegetables and rice are all represented. There’s also tamagoyaki, a slightly sweet rolled omelet made from thin layers of egg in a rectangular pan that gives it its signature shape.

Iceland

Start your day in Iceland with a jolt of life-giving lysi: cod liver oil, a plentiful source of omega-3 fatty acids and one of the byproducts of the country’s fish industry. Though it’s been said to combat seasonal affective disorder, among other health benefits, it’s not the only breakfast option.For a more palatable morning meal, have a bowl of hafragrautur, a thick oatmeal. Top it with nuts, raisins and sugar, or add a helping of skyr, the thick yogurt-like cultured dairy product that’s actually a fresh cheese. 

Singapore

The multitude of dishes served in the hawker centers entice the appetite in this Asian city-state. These open-air food courts are always open for business, and it’s not uncommon to see hungry people scooping up bowls of savory curry noodles first thing in the morning.For a traditional hawker-style breakfast, kaya toast is a must-have. This unassuming-looking toasted sandwich is spread with flavorful kaya, a sweet jam made with coconut milk, eggs and sometimes pandan leaf for vibrant green color and flavor. It’s great with coffee or tea, and each stall or shop makes kaya toast its own way — so why not try a few?

Morocco

Along with mint tea, semolina breads are mainstays on the Moroccan breakfast table. Baghrir are thin, yeasted rounds studded with tiny holes that give them the name “thousand-hole pancakes” or “thousand-hole crepes.” Instead of maple syrup, these light semolina breads are topped with butter and honey.Harcha are thicker, griddled biscuit-style rounds that have a crispy crust from a dusting of coarse semolina. They can be split like English muffins and served with cheese or butter, jam, and honey.

Australia

For those who love grain bowls, avocado and other savory toasts, and other staples of all-day café culture, Australia’s “brekkie” will be a match made in heaven. With a focus on fresh produce, whole grains and nourishing combinations, Australian breakfasts can range from the classic avocado toast on seeded bread to a farro bowl topped with a poached egg and pickled vegetables or rice pudding with yogurt, seeds and berries.Don’t forget the flat white — an espresso with a high ratio of steamed milk that even Starbucks can’t get enough of. 

Argentina

There’s one word that defines the Argentinean breakfast spread: facturas. The overarching term for pastries encompasses a sweet and doughy world of shapes, sizes and flavors.Some of the more popular offerings include medialunes, a croissant-shaped brioche pastry; bombas and bolas de fraille, or fried doughnuts; and churros, which are often dipped in chocolate. Many are filled with dulce de leche or crema pastelera, a vanilla custard.Pair a platter of facturas with highly caffeinated yerba mate or coffee.

Germany

In the land of many wurst, it’s not surprising that sausage and other meats take a starring role in frühstück, the traditional German breakfast.This buffet spread is filled with variety: sausages, cold cuts, cheeses, bread and rolls (including pretzels), as well as fresh fruit, soft-boiled eggs and condiments such as homemade jam. The abundant choices are meant for sampling and assembling as you please. 

Brazil

If you can’t stop eating pao de queijo, the puffy baked cheese rolls that are a staple of Brazilian culture, you’ll be happy to know you can eat them for breakfast, too. But for a variation on Brazilian breakfast breads, try bolo de fuba. It’s a cornbread-style cake with a moist and creamy texture that comes from the addition of grated Parmesan cheese and/or shredded coconut. Sliced and served like a pound cake, it’s frequently an afternoon pick-me-up too.

Tunisia

Fans of savory meals will love lablabi, a spiced chickpea soup that, yes, is a breakfast food in Tunisia. Chickpeas and harissa paste are the two constants in virtually every lablabi recipe, but the customizations of this simple, soul-warming soup are up to every cook. Sometimes thickened with pieces of stale crusty bread, sometimes brightened by a squeeze of a lemon, sometimes made creamy with yogurt or topped with olives, there are infinite ways to enjoy it.And because it’s often topped with a poached egg, it’s a breakfast that will fill you up all day.

Bulgaria

Popara follows in the long tradition of using leftover bread as the next day’s meal. This warm, comforting breakfast is a childhood favorite of many Bulgarians — it’s not quite a porridge and not quite a bread pudding, but shares characteristics of both.Warm milk or tea is poured over a bowl of cubed bread, crumbled Bulgarian sirene cheese, butter and sugar, and left to soak until soft and spoonable. Sirene is a feta-style cheese that’s creamier and softer than many of the Eastern European brined cheeses, so it doesn’t give the dish as much of a salty flavor and more of a fresh, goat cheese-like tanginess.

Turkey

Kahvalti, the traditional Turkish breakfast spread, is a lavish affair that has a little something for everyone. For those who love to graze and snack, the abundant options will leave nothing lacking.Turkish breads such as simit, a circular seeded loaf, or pide, a chewy flatbread, accompany bowls of feta or other fresh, salty cheeses; olives; halvah; and honey and preserves. Eggs are often cooked with pan-fried slices of sucuk, a dried beef sausage spiced with garlic, red pepper, cumin and sumac.

Guam

This small island — technically an American territory — In the Pacific Ocean is a melting pot of culinary culture, with foods that show the influence of the various countries that colonized the land over the centuries.Like many Asian Pacific nations, Spam is a favorite add-in for breakfasts of fried rice and eggs. But just as popular is the local chamorro pork sausage, a fresh chorizo-style sausage named after the indigenous population of the island. Grilled in links or patties, it’s breakfast sausage like no other.

Portugal

Coffee drinks with lots of milk are the first order of business when getting breakfast in Portugal. Uma mei de leite, a half-and-half blend of coffee and milk, or um galao, which is mostly milk with a shot of coffee, are an easy way to ease into the day.Though many Portuguese have a simple piece of toast or bread alongside their drink, the perfect pairing for these milky coffees are pasteis de nata, or egg custard tarts. With a flaky puff pastry shell and a creamy custard filling, they’re equally popular as a snack for the 11 a.m. cafe break, another Portuguese morning ritual.

Ukraine

Tender and fluffy on the inside and crispy golden brown on the outside, Ukrainian syrniki pancakes wouldn’t be out of place on a five-star brunch buffet. Yet they’re made with a simple ingredient: fresh farmer’s cheese, known as tvorog, with a consistency similar to ricotta or cottage cheese. The crisp exterior comes from a quick dredge in flour, like a breakfast fritter. Like American pancakes or French toast, they can be topped with fresh fruit, preserves or powdered sugar, but like potato pancakes or blintzes, they can go savory with a side of sour cream. 

Jamaica

For breakfast in Jamaica, it couldn’t get more patriotic than eating the national dish: ackee and saltfish.Ackee, a delicately sweet pear-shaped fruit, is sautéed with salt cod, tomatoes, garlic, chilies and onion in a breakfast scramble that brings together sweet, salty and spicy for a one-of-a-kind island taste. Though it looks similar to scrambled eggs, that’s just the creamy yellow ackee, Jamaica’s national fruit, in the dish.

Taiwan

While a glass of milk is often advertised in the US as “part of a balanced breakfast,” dòu jiāng takes the tradition to new levels. This fresh soy milk is a specialty of Taiwan, typically made fresh by street vendors and restaurants every morning for their customers. Served hot in the winter and cold in the summer, it’s a refreshing contrast to the chewy scallion pancakes, dumplings and dough fritters that are also part of the usual Taiwanese breakfast. Dip your fritters in the soy milk for an extra treat.

Italy

Italians are almost too busy for breakfast — or so you’d think from the number of coffee bars where guests take their espresso standing up for a quick jolt at the beginning of the day. But whether standing or relaxing for a moment at a café table, there’s always time for a coffee and Italian pastry to go with it. For the morning, espresso or cappuccino is frequently paired with a simple sweet such as a cornetto, or croissant, filled with custard or Nutella. Sfogliatelle, a crunchy and flaky multilayered pastry with a sweet ricotta cheese filling, is another breakfast standard. 

United States of America

When it comes to classic American brunch, you can’t go wrong with fluffy buttermilk pancakes stacked high alongside a pile of crispy bacon. The contrasting textures and salty-sweet flavor pairing make this breakfast a favorite of kids and adults alike. And while pancakes can be dressed up by adding in everything from fresh blueberries to chocolate chips to pecans, the classic toppings of butter and maple syrup remain the gold standard.

Russia

Though it sounds indulgent, caviar is actually a Russian breakfast food. Whether red or black caviar, it remains a favorite topping for large, folded crepe-like blini or small, thick oladyi pancakes at weekend brunches. On weekdays, however, breakfasts are simpler. On these mornings, caviar is spread across dark, sweet rye bread, known simply as black bread, sometimes with a smear of butter as well.Most importantly, a pot of black tea is a fixture on every breakfast table.

This story was first published in May 2019 and last updated and republished in January 2022.

No movie

Posted on February 1, 2022 by Roger Harmston Posted in Terroir 1 Comment

Airframe remains one of Crichton’s few novels not adapted to film. Crichton stated this was due to the great expense needed to make such a film. 


No Killer Plot. Not much action. But there is a pace to it.


It is a story of the investigation of a seemingly normal plane crash, until the investigators witness the condition of the interior cabin. And the fact that the pilot is behaving so strangely accentuates the strangeness of the entire incident.


Make sure that you have a whole day set aside to read the last half of the book.  You won’t put it down and will have to wait for the end for the ‘reveal’

AirFrame, Michael Crichton

Still on First

Posted on January 29, 2022 by Roger Harmston Posted in Terroir 1 Comment

Matua, meaning “Head of the Family” is the first ever to produce Sauvignon in New Zealand.

A little different than most Sauvignon from here, this one comes from Hawke’s Bay on the Northern Island.  

This favourite boasts classic regional flavours. Its fresh and clean and very expressive.  Very light in colour, with a tinge of green in the hue. It finds the right balance of fruity sweetness and zesty acidity. The finish is semi-dry.


Definitely will be looking for this one again when the weather brightens and we can spend some time on the deck – munching crackers and cheese listening to stories of winter shenanigans.


SAUVIGNON BLANC – MATUA HAWKES BAY

$17.99

12% Alcohol

UPC: 09415305120994

Matua mystery case Sauvignon Blanc

Lonely, but loved

Posted on January 29, 2022 by Roger Harmston Posted in Terroir Leave a comment

There isn’t a lot of Gamay grown in BC, but it is one of the most popular grapes around the world – often grown to be part of a blend.


We are starting off Mystery Case #15 with this VQA red from the Middle Bench, near Keremeos.  They have been organic farming their Robin Ridge vineyard since 1997.


Reviewers say “red licorices” flavours.  …fellow imbiber asks “What about gummy bears flavours?”


Treehouse homemade Chilli the first night and prune/fig stuffed pork tenderloin the second night.  All went down well with this elegant and crisp Gamay made from organic grapes, estate grown.  There is an easy and very well balanced finish.

We will have to watch out for others in their repertoire.


ROBIN RIDGE – GAMAY ORGANIC 2020

$23.99

14% Alcohol

UPC: 00626990155027

Gamay mystery case Robin Ridge VQA

Don’t struggle me

Posted on January 26, 2022 by Roger Harmston Posted in Terroir Leave a comment

Struggling with my Spanish Lessons. And my history.


“I wrote the book thinking that about four people would read it,” she says. “So I wrote it with the freedom that gives you.” 
A year later her first published book has turned into a phenomenon. Now in its 13th edition, Feria has not only become a bestseller but has triggered frenzied debate and thrust its 30-year-old author into the spotlight.


But as well as its autobiographical content, there is a strident, moral tone to Feria, as Simón takes aim at a range of targets that she believes have tainted Spanish society and culture, including consumerism, classism, the marginalisation of rural Spain – and even reggaeton music.


“It’s about things which are very basic: death, love, the family,” she says. “And it’s nice to know that in the end we all have something in common, however much we might want to think otherwise.”

I can’t wait for a translated version so I won’t have to struggle .. but I’m glad I did because I understand the emotions behind what she has written.


Feria, Ana Iris Simon

Is it the 1%?

Posted on January 25, 2022 by Roger Harmston Posted in Terroir Leave a comment

33% Grenache, 33% Syrah, 33% Mourvedre & 1% Other

Berries, Cherries and Plums are the predominant flavours. Lots of silky, smooth bright cherry, blueberry and spicy.

Carbonic maceration is typically undertaken with light to medium-bodied wines to make them fruitier and to soften their tannins.  The grapes are not crushed, rather put whole bunch into a fermentation vessel then carbon dioxide is added and the vessel sealed so no oxygen can interact with the grapes.  There is no yeast to cause the grapes to ferment.  The fermentation happens within the grape where the carbon dioxide is used to break down the sugars and malic acid within the grape. Once the alcohol level reaches 2%, the berries burst to release their juice and at this point fermentation using yeast is undertaken to convert the remaining sugars from the grape juice to produce the wine.

Other reviewers give this a 91 points. I’m tempted to go a little higher. It’s robust and exceptional value.

CORBIERES AN 806 GRENACHE SYRAH MOURVEDRE – GERARD BERTRAND

$17.99 $19.99 regularly

14% alcohol

UPC: 03514123101768

Gerard Bertrand Grenache Mourvedre mystery case syrah

Off to the movies

Posted on January 21, 2022 by Roger Harmston Posted in Terroir Leave a comment

Usually I shy away from Celebrity owned/backed wines and spirits, but did approach this one with an open mind and was sorta/kinda rewarded. Nothing to fault it. This is a good, solid Cab Sauv. But, we’ve had nicer ones from small obscure vintners off shore.

Very smooth tannins and an aromatic nose. The earthy flavours complimented the mussels in a white wine sauce.

The Goddess made a nice selection adding it to the Mystery Case.

Frances Coppola Diamond Collection Claret Cabernet Sauvignon

$26.99 regularly $29.99

13.5% Alcohol

Cabernet Savignon Francis Coppola mystery case
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